BLOCK 2 - DRUNKARD'S PATH
Curved Seams - 4 patch - 8 pieces - Need 2 templates
NOTE: A concave curve is one that bows inward and a convex curve is one that bows outward.
Cutting Instructions: Make plastic or cardboard templates 1 & 2. Suggest using 2 fabrics of light and dark contrast, iron fabric and use Best Press or spray starch for stability. Accurate cutting is very important, SOG arrows marked.
Cutting A: cut 4 pieces of template 1 from fabric #1, and cut 4 pieces of template 2 from fabric #2.
Cutting B - could cut 2 each of both templates from fabric #1 and #2. For simplicity of our Jump Start Sampler, suggest using cutting A.
Sewing Curves Tips:
-- They have a bias requiring pinning and delicate handling.
-- While sewing, adjust to maneuver around curve smoothly.
-- Go slowly - take just 2 - 3 stitches at a time, then adjust.
-- Keep seams aligned as they feed under the presser foot.
-- Stiletto or similar tool very helpful feeding curves under presser foot.
-- Tricky; at very end, hold end pieces aligned as they will want to twist away.
Construction: (written using pieces cut from Cutting A suggestion).
Hint (but not necessary): Sew a very scant ¼" stay-stitch on concave (bowed inward) edges, snip curves up to a scant ¼" but not past the sewing line. This helps control the bulk on top when piecing pairs together.
1. Fold pieces in half at concave and convex edges. Make pairs.
2. RST and concave on top, line up and pin at half-way fold and both ends for all 4 pairs. You can add more pins along curve as necessary for you. It's all bias!!
3. Marianne Fons sews curved seams feeding with concave curve on top. This is my preference, too. However, most books/instructions will tell you to place convex curve (one that bows outward) on top. Try both and see what is most comfortable for you. If you are piecing curves for the first time, either way it will look peculiar as the curve distorts your perception. It's bulky and looks like it won't work. Just trust your accurate cutting and 1/4" seaming, because they fit perfectly.
4. Take your time. Once sewn, look over seams, sometimes what appears a pucker disappears with ironing.
5. Iron the seam to either side of curved seams, just be consistent for all 4 pairs.
6. Arrange 4 patches, seam top & and bottom pairs to create two halves, press.
7. Sew halves together, press and square to 9 1/2" Unfinished block.
BLOCK 6 - GRANDMOTHER'S FAN
Appliqué Block - Five Pieces - 30 degrees
Cutting:
1. Make templates 1 and 2 from plastic or cardboard.
2. Need background piece - cut 9 3/4" - will trim after appliqué to 9 1/2".
3. Cut out 3 fan pieces - they can be 1-3 different fabrics.
4. Cut out 1 of template 2, suggest a solid, different from fan pieces.
Construction (sew a consistent ¼ inch seam allowance for this block:
1. Sew two fan wedges together, start at the top of wedge (arrow on template indicates where to start) and sew to end.
2. Sew third fan wedge to wedge pair, from top to bottom end like 1.
3. Press the seams open.
4. Lay fan wedge on top of background square. Edges should meet edge of square, may need some trimming but save that for after sewing. Important: There needs to be the 1/4" seam allowance beyond top of fan across all 3 wedge pieces. When happy with its placement, secure wedge to background square by pinning, fusing, temporary spray, glue stick, or whatever is your preference.
5. If fused down, you will not be able to cut away background fabric behind wedge once it is secured with stitching. If temporary spray or glue stick is used, this will wash away. If pinned down, I'll do a "basting stitch" of long straight or very, very narrow long zigzag before I do final appliqué sewing stitch. This is added precaution to prevent any shifting since the heavier stitching will be going down along a bias curve.
6. Stitch the wedge down on background by machine or hand. Basics are straight stitch (raw edge appliqué), zigzag, satin stitch, the blind appliqué stitch on some machines. To add more detail, there are decorative stitches that work very nicely for appliqué on curves like a vine, feather or chevron stitch. I recommend using a light/medium stabilizer for the machine stitching. It keeps the thread on top and prevents puckers.
7. Pin/fuse/glue corner piece in place and add complementing stitch down. Like the wedge, I baste down for satin stitch or other decorative stitch. And I use stabilizer behind stitches.
8. Once fused down, sewn, or hand stitching is done, trim block to 9-1/2".
SASHING (Setting the 12 blocks together)
3 basic settings are: "straight" - parallel to the borders; "on-point" - rotated 45 degrees (diamonds); or no sashings.
BOM Jump Start Sampler uses the straight setting for sashing. We'll cut 3" strips to make sashings 2-1/2" wide, when completed.
Add vertical sashings creating rows 1-4, and then add horizontal sashings, creating start of quilt top.
Press and square up blocks, use your smallest block as the unfinished block size.
For 9-1/2" UNFINISHED BLOCKS: Cut 8 pieces 3" x 9 1/2". Cut 3 pieces 3" x 32 1/2".
For 9-1/4" UNFINISHED BLOCKS: Cut 8 pieces 3" x 9 1/4". Cut 3 pieces 3" x 31 3/4"
For 9" UNFINISHED BLOCKS: Cut 8 pieces 3" x 9". Cut 3 pieces 3" x 31".
Tips to remember:
1. Sashing strips frame and separate the blocks
2. Sashings enlarge the quilt top & make additional areas to quilt.
3. Sashings/borders are larger pieces of one fabric used in the blocks.
4. Sashings of one color add a lot of that color to the quilt,
5. Solid and tone-on-tone prints showcase quilting designs better.
6. Narrow Sashings will bring the blocks closer together and wide sashings will provide a larger separation between the blocks.
FUDGE FACTOR: almost all blocks are 9-1/2" but 2-3 are only 9 1/4"?
Use 9-1/2" and persuade smaller ones to grow the 1/4" needed.
FUDGE FACTOR: almost all blocks are 9-1/4" but 2-3 are 9-1/2"?
Use 9-1/4" and trim down from all 4 sides a teeny-weeny bit on the large ones.
